Quilt Backing, Batting and Binding Calculator

1. Pick inches or centimetres, then enter your quilt top width and length. These are the finished size of the top before quilting.
2. Set the backing overhang and batting overhang per side, choose your backing fabric width (42, 44 or 108 in wide), and confirm the seam allowance for joining panels.
3. Set the binding strip width, the binding fabric width and a little extra length for corners and joins. Read the backing, batting and binding results below.

What each result tells you:

A quilt is three layers. The top is the decorative pieced side. The batting is the soft middle layer that gives warmth and loft. The backing is the fabric on the underside. The three layers are quilted together, then the raw edges are enclosed with a strip of fabric called the binding.

Because the backing and batting must be larger than the top so the quilt can be loaded and quilted without running short, you cannot just buy fabric equal to the top. This planner adds your overhangs, works out whether standard fabric is wide enough or must be pieced, and sizes the binding. For other craft projects you can plan with the knitting yarn calculator or browse the hobby calculators hub.

Every result is simple craft geometry. Nothing here is a brand figure; the fabric widths, overhangs and strip widths are your inputs, shown with common example values you should replace with your own.

1. If the usable fabric width is at least the needed backing width, one length covers it: backing yards = needed length / 36.
2. Otherwise the backing is pieced. The tool compares vertical panels (panels x needed length / 36) with horizontal panels (panels x needed width / 36) and keeps whichever uses less fabric.
3. Batting is (width + 2 x batting overhang) by (length + 2 x batting overhang).
4. Binding: perimeter = 2 x (width + length), add a little extra for corners and joins, then strips = total length / binding fabric width rounded up, and binding yards = strips x strip width / 36.

All yardage is rounded up to the nearest 1/8 yard, the way fabric is usually cut. One yard is 36 inches, or about 0.91 metres.

Take a throw-size top that is 60 by 80 inches. You use a 4 inch backing overhang per side for longarm quilting, 44 inch quilting cotton, a 1/2 inch seam allowance, 2.5 inch binding strips from 42 inch fabric, and 2 inch batting overhang.

Meaning: buy 5 yards for the backing, cut batting at 64 by 84 inches, and set aside half a yard for seven binding strips. A 108 inch wide backing would instead cover the 68 inch piece in one seamless length of about 2.5 yards.

A few choices move the yardage up or down. Change them in the calculator to see the effect for your own quilt.

Backing Overhang

Longarm quilters often ask for a generous overhang on every side so the quilt loads squarely. A larger overhang grows the needed backing piece and can push you from one panel to two, which is where yardage jumps. Ask your quilter for their exact requirement.

Fabric Width

Standard quilting cotton is usually 42 to 44 inches usable. Anything wider than that usable width must be pieced from panels, which roughly doubles the backing yardage. Wide "backing" fabric at about 108 inches avoids seams on most bed quilts.

Panel Orientation

When a backing is pieced, running the seam vertically or horizontally can change how much fabric you buy. The tool checks both and reports the layout that wastes less.

Binding Strip Width

Wider strips use a little more fabric and give a fuller binding. Most quilters cut 2.25 to 2.5 inch strips for double-fold binding; use your pattern's figure. To compare any two widths as a ratio, see ratios and proportions explained.

Once a backing has to be pieced, it is worth comparing a wide backing before you buy.

The calculator's verdict line estimates the wide-backing yardage for your quilt so you can weigh the saved fabric and seams against the smaller print selection.

Before You Shop

Work out backing, batting and binding yardage together so one fabric-store trip covers the whole quilt, with the overhang your quilter needs.

Sending a Quilt to a Longarm Quilter

Most longarm quilters publish a required backing and batting overhang. Enter it here to buy the right size and avoid a short backing on the frame.

Costing a Project

Turn the yardage into a budget alongside other supplies. For soap, candle and other maker costs, see the candle wax calculator and soap lye calculator.

1. Buying Backing the Same Size as the Top

The backing must be larger on every side. Skipping the overhang leaves you short when the quilt is loaded or basted.

2. Forgetting the Seam Allowance When Piecing

Sewing two panels together eats into the width at every join. The calculator removes the seam allowance from the usable width so the panels still cover the backing.

3. Ignoring Panel Direction

Running panels the long way or the short way can change the yardage. Check the layout result before cutting.

4. Cutting Binding Too Short

Mitred corners and diagonal joins use length. The extra-length field adds a cushion so you do not run out at the last corner.

5. Not Allowing for Shrinkage

If you prewash, cotton can shrink a few percent. Buy a little extra or measure a washed test piece, and track the change with the percentage change formula.

The geometry is exact for rectangular quilts. Differences from a shop's cut usually come from fabric that is narrower than labelled, or from design choices this tool does not model.

Pre-cut batting is also sold in standard sizes such as crib, twin, queen and king. If the batting size here is close to one of those, buying a pre-cut piece can be simpler; this is general information, so check the actual dimensions on the package.

Add your overhang to every side of the quilt top, then compare the needed width with your usable fabric width. If one length covers it, buy the needed length in yards; if not, the backing is pieced from panels. For a 60 by 80 inch top with 4 inch overhang on 44 inch fabric, that is about 5 yards.

The backing should be larger on every side. Home quilting often uses 2-3 inches per side, while longarm quilters commonly ask for about 4 inches per side. Use the overhang your own quilter requires.

Wide backing is useful once a standard 42-44 inch backing would have to be pieced, which is most bed-size quilts. It usually gives a seamless back and less yardage, at the cost of a smaller print selection. The verdict line estimates the wide-backing yardage for your quilt.

Measure the perimeter as 2 times width plus length, add about 10-15 inches for corners and joins, then divide by your binding fabric width and round up to get the number of strips. Yardage is the strip count times the strip width, divided by 36.

Batting is the quilt size plus a batting overhang of about 2-4 inches per side. For a 60 by 80 inch top with 2 inch overhang, cut batting at 64 by 84 inches. Pre-cut batting also comes in crib, twin, queen and king sizes.

Either. Switch the units toggle and the quilt size and overhang fields convert for you. Fabric is sold by the yard in the United States and by the metre elsewhere, so the tool shows both.

No. Cotton can shrink a few percent when prewashed, and the amount varies by fabric. Prewash and measure a test piece, or buy a little extra, rather than relying on a single figure.

When a backing is pieced, the seam can run with the length or across the width. One direction often uses less fabric, so the tool compares both and reports the layout that wastes less.

No. The calculation runs in your browser and nothing is sent to our servers. Anything you choose to save stays in this browser only.

• Yard (unit of length) (1 yard = 36 inches = 0.9144 m; used for all yardage).
• Quilting (the three quilt layers: top, batting and backing).
• Seam allowance (standard sewing and quilting seam allowance conventions).